Back in September,I was reading Mary Corbett's embroidery blog and came across the Autumn Leaves & Acorns post which also has/had (you choose) a free pattern. In the post, and pattern, there are NO instructions on stitches to be used nor are there any colors identified but a link to the House of Embroidery (HoE) Fall Colors floss assortment was. I looked at the tread assortment and I knew how I was going to sew this pattern and that I would need more colors than what was in the assortment.
Welcome back! It is time for the next tutorial in this series.
The tutorials so far have taught the basics: making a core, a division tool, how to prepare the core for sewing, and then sewing your first yubinuki with a single color, single needle, and a pattern with an even number of divisions.
This second sewing tutorial will be a single color, single needle pattern with an odd number of divisions. This is important because the number of divisions from the previous tutorial was an even number and this results in when taking the first stitch of the second round, the needle was back at the starting point. For this tutorial, the first stitch of the second round will be on same division line as the very first stitch but on the opposite edge of the yubuinuki; this means it will take TWO rounds to return to the starting point. All of this is important because it results in the threads being interlaced.
Let's get started!
Gather you material, supplies and tools:
Part 1: Sewing the first half of Round 1
Part 2 : Sewing the second half of Round 1
Part 3 : Sewing Remaining Rounds
Here is what the completed yubinuki should look like when completed.
Now that a simple, single color thread has been sewn, it would be good to cover reading and even making your own pattern; and to start the sewing pattern from the last tutorial is the perfect starting point.
Let's recap that pattern:
Here is a pattern diagram of what was sewn; can you understand or read it based upon what was sewn?
Let's now go over what the pattern instructions are:
A) First, you can see that there are 10 divisions
B) The one in the circle and the arrow indicate where to start and in what direction to stitch
C) The stitching begins at division line 1
D) The colored line not indicates the color use
E) Since there are no other lines, arrows, or numbers this pattern is sewn, around and around until the threads fill in all the spaces.
Yes, this is a simple pattern but now look at this pattern below, from one of the Japanese books I have. Yes, this is a very complex pattern. The book that this came from is ALL patterns and almost NO descriptions, not even in Japanese!
I have NOT sewn this and each time I look at it I understand a bit more. This pattern uses 6 colors and the patter is sewn from left to right AND right to left. It also appears to interweave the threads which requires at least 2 needles, each with a thread. This implies that after each round with one needle/thread, the other needle thread is used - this can be seen in how the green sections cross.
Some day, this pattern will be shown in a tutorial
Two weeks ago I went to the John C. Campbell Folk School in North Carolina for a 5 day open workshop with my Temari teacher, Barbara Suess. I signed up for this workshop because I have been working on my Level 1 Honka Shuuryou certification and am preparing the Temari that will be submitted to the Japanese Temari Association.
To read about the course work for my certification follow this link, this post is about my time at the School.
I had an early, direct flight to Atlanta and from the airport I took the arranged shuttle to the school in North Carolina which meant I had to wait about 4 hours before the van departed; I had time for breakfast and to read some but IF I go again, I think I will rent a car and drive myself. The shuttle cost was not that much less expensive and having a car, or access to one, while at the school gives you the opportunity to drive off campus to see some of the area and eat out (more on this later).
The drive to the school took about 3 hours and it was enjoyable since we all were going to the school and there were 3 other Temari workshop students as well. Among the 4 of us there was 1 newbie and 3 experienced temari makers and as for attending the school it was 2 and 2; so we talked about the school, temari we had done and the workshop. Upon arrival we checked in, when to our respective rooms and then gathered back in the main house for the welcome meeting. After that is was off to dinner and a quick meeting with Barbara.
Here are the pictures I took Sunday
For the next 5 days it was breakfast at 8 am, workshop from 9 am to Noon, lunch, more workshop from 1 pm until 5 pm, dinner and open studio from 7 pm until 9 pm. I spent most every moment sewing temari to get the most out of my time there. Now for the details.
In the workshop we had 12 students and 2 teachers - Barbara and her assistant Dana. There were 6 students who were newbies and 6 of us that were not; and those of use that were experienced ranged from advanced beginner to intermediate stitchers; with me working on my Level 1 certification and another student working on her Level 2 certification. We positioned ourselves around the table by skill so it was easier for the teachers to work with each group. We all introduced ourselves and set off to working on Temari.
Eventually Barb and I met to discuss the temari for my certification and then "we" realized that I had gotten it wrong; I did not have to make 4 more temari to submit, the temari that would be submitted would be from those I had already stitched during the course work! We selected 3 temari that I had stitched; I had my laptop with me and all the pictures of all the temari. For the 4th temari, I would have to stitch a new ball since the ones I had stitched were to simple.
Over the next 4 day I stitched 4 temari including the new temari for my certification and a small temari sewn along with the rest of the class in a pattern called swirls.
Every day I walked everywhere from my room at one end of the campus to the dining hall and then to the classroom and back and forth and up and down hills. I wore my fit bit and I was walking about 4 miles per day. Along the way I took the following pictures in addition to the ones at the top of this blog post.
As for the school and my impressions of the place - I had a wonderful time except for the meals. The campus is beautiful, the staff and other "campers" were nice but the food was barely adequate. Every meal is served family style but it was always at room temperature - NOT HOT and sometimes I would not say it was cooked. The weather wasn't cold-cold but one morning it was 33 F outside and breakfast was eggs, bacon, biscuits and gravy all of which at room temperature and gravy had congealed! And if you were unfortunate to sit at a table with more men than women, well lets just say there might not be much left in the serving dishes when they were passed to you. Yes, we could go to the kitchen and get more BUT each meal really was a bit on the skimpy side. For dinner one night I didn't eat what was severed and just made a PB&J sandwich - what was served was a pork ragout with sweat potato gnocchi. The gnocchi were not and didn't even taste like a sweet potato; I did not even attempt the ragout!
Would I go back - yes but I might not stay on campus nor take the meal plan, let alone the airport shuttle. Your experience may be different.
To close, here are some pictures from the last day exhibition displaying some of the work from the other workshops.
In this tutorial, I will teach you how to sew a yubinuki with a disclaimer which is - it won't be perfect.
Because the hardest part of sewing a yubinuki is getting your stitches to be evenly spaced, around the ring, such that you have the same number of stitches in each division of the pattern. As you will see, as you learn, when you have finished sewing a division, some will be filled with stitches and others will have gaps. As your designs get more complex and you use finer threads, the number of stitches taken within a division will change which adds to this issue. Again, just keep this in mind and the more yubinuki you make, the better your skill at spacing your stitches will become. The disclaimer is now over!
NOTE: I have done this yubinuki twice, once with the pattern below the padding and once with the pattern on the padding; so some pictures will be of one, or the other or both. AND neither has the herringbone top stitch, which holds them down, so not to confuse you.
To start gather you material, supplies and tools:
Step 1 - Threading the Core
Step 2: Sew the next stitch
Step 3: Continue Stitching Around.
Step 4: Complete the Second Round
Hi there fellow Yubinuki-ers, there is now a new community for us to learn and share.
This community is a sub-group of a Temari community but you do NOT have to join the Temari group.
The group currently has only about 50 members who have a variety of experience, so come join us!
Note: This is not a Facebook group, and you do have to sign up when you go to the URL but there is NO cost involved.
The link is: https://temarichallenge.groups.io/g/Yubinuki
Wow, we are now ready to sew our first yubinuki! Or are we?
Before actually sewing the yubinuki, the core must be prepared with the padding and the pattern to be sewn.
To start gather you material, tools and supplies:
Step 1 Option A - Wind Padding on to the Core
Step 2 Option A - Measure and Mark Pattern
The pattern you will sew will be very easy, one color, in one direction. We are doing this to not only to learn how to sew but to evenly space our stitches; which is not easy and if you are not careful will result in gaps. This will be covered in more detail in the actual sewing post
Step 3 Option A - Apply Pattern to the Core
Now, we are ready to SEW!!
Option B has the exact same steps as Option A but they are done in a different order. To follow this option the steps would be
Step 1 - Measure and Mark the Pattern (refer to Step 2 Option A above).
Step 2 - Apply Pattern to the Core (refer to Step 3 Option A above).
Step 3 - Apply Padding to the Core ( (refer to Step 1 Option A above).
Here are some more pictures to help you see the difference.
Before you can start sewing a yubinuki design, the pattern guide has be create so it can be used to mark where the design is to be sewn. But how to make the divisions on the pattern guide can be difficult. WHY?
IF your cores vary in size, each time you measure the outer (surface) circumference, it will be easy to take that measurement and divide it using a calculator but if the length of each division has fractions of millimeters actually marking the division lines on the pattern guide will be difficult.
Well, using a division template, removes the math and hassle. Shh, this works due to geometry!
The three basic division grids you need are 1 cm, 5 mm, and 2.5 mm and now will tell you how to make a 5mm grid of your own and then you can make any size you want.
There are several ways to make a division grid.
The next tutorial will be how to take the the core and add the padding, mark the pattern guide using the division tool, and sew a simple design.
YES, Finally a real tutorial!
Making a core or base takes several steps, but before we do that a decision must be made as to what finger the yubinuki will be worn on and where on the finger it will be worn. Traditionally a Yubinuki was worn on the middle finger between the first and second joint as shown in the picture on left. The other place the yubinuki can be worn is where the finger meets the hand, for example on the middle finger (right picture) and it can still be used as a thimble but it can also be worn as a ring even on what we call the ring finger.
NOTE: all images can be opened, to be larger, by clicking on the image and from there you can scroll backwards and forwards, in the series.
STEP 1 Measuring for the Core:
To measure for the size of the core, wrap a tape measure around the finger depending on where it is to be worn. We are actually measuring the circumference which is the length of the "circle" .
Write YOUR measurement DOWN! For this tutorial, I will be using the measurement from the first location, on the middle finger, before the joint. MY measurement is 56 mm but to ensure the Yubinuki does not move too much I am going with 55 mm.
STEP 2 Make the Support Mandrel:
Take a piece of regular paper and cut the paper in half so it is half the width but still full length.
Measure and draw a line horizontally, from the bottom edge of the paper, the number of millimeters that were measured with the tape measure. Make an arrow at the bottom edge and at the line.
Now from the top roll a tube (the extra thickness of the paper rolled inside will support the tube and the core as it is being made). Adjust the tube making it tighter or looser, so the bottom edge and arrow meets the drawn line and the arrows meet.
Tape the tube closed at the top and bottom. Measure the circumference of the tube and adjust to make it the measurement that is required. I rolled mine to 54 mm so when I add a layer of painters tape, it results in a measurement of 55 mm. Then write the size of the tube on one end so I can reuse the tube later and know what the measurement is.
STEP 3 Cut the material for the Lining:
Take your lining material (see other post for what to use) and cut it to length. Cut the material so it is 30 to 35 mm wide by xx mm's in length. What length is xx you ask? That length is found by adding the finger measurement taken earlier + 15 mm's (or more), to overlap so there isn't a raw edge on the inside surface of the yubinuki, this will become very apparent in the final assembly. That is the length you need. The length I cut to was 66 mm (55 mm + 3 mm + 12 mm). Once it is cut to length, mark a 3 mm line from one end, then fold it at that line and either press it or finger press it and get a good firm crease. Set this aside for the assembly which is coming up.
STEP 4 Cut the Card Stock for inside the Core:
Take your card stock (paper) and cut it 11 mm wide and at least twice if not 4+ times the length of the finger measurement. The longer the strip means there will be more wraps thus making a thicker core, this thickness is to the outside of your finger because the support mandrel (tube) keeps the inside measurement from changing. Since I am using a J. Peterman Co. catalog for this tutorial, the length of the strip is 260 mm which is more than 4 times my finger measurement. Remember that as the card stock is wrapped, it will add thickness which is why the overall length must be MORE than just one length of the measurement. Yes, I use a rotary cutter, mat and ruler to cut my card stock.
STEP 5 Assemble the Core Layers:
Take the support mandrel and put the fabric on the mandrel so the "inside" of the fabric (the fold is visible on this side) is towards you and the outside is against the mandrel - the outside surface is what will be against the finger. Put down the folded end first and then wrap the extra around so the extra length, overlaps the folded edge. The fabric should be snug but not too tight. Using small pieces of tape, tape the fabric edge down to the fabric beneath it; only tape the center between the top and bottom edges.
Lay the card stock on the fabric, on the mandrel. Position the paper so it is centered vertically between the top and bottom edges of the fabric and place the edge of the paper on the side opposite the folded and taped fabric ends. Take a small piece of tape and tape the the end to the fabric to hold it in place and again, do not place it on the fold, do it on the opposite side as this will help keep the thickness even. Now wrap the paper around, at least 2 or more times. Once again take a small piece of tape and tape the end down so it can't un-roll. Adjust the edges of the card stock so they are all even to create a nice clean edge along the top and bottom. I use painters tape so I can easily re position it if I need to make adjustments
Next the extra fabric at the top or the bottom of the card stock roll and fold/pull it over to cover the card stock. Do this with your fingers or a needle. Next take the extra fabric at the other edge and fold it over the paper such that the fabric at the not only cover the paper but overlaps the other edge of the lining fabric
This is where that extra length of your lining comes in. IF your fabric is not long enough, the overlap will spread and separate revealing a raw edge on the inside; this is why it is important to add that extra. And since the roll of card stock is thick, having the fabric cut on the bias allows the fabric to stretch during the process of folding the fabric over.
As needed use a needle to pull the fabric towards the center so the fabric meets the edges of the card stock core.
STEP 6 Sew the Core Together:
Take the sewing needle and cotton thread and thread the needle with an arms length of thread and have the thread so it is 1/3 and 2/3 through the eye of the needle. Knot only ONE end of the thread as the sewing will be done with a single thread. Now use a herring bone stitch to sew the material overlap together (see first picture below)
This is a video that shows how to stitch the herring bone stitch... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHkB_iadptA
When stitching, you need to make sure you catch the overlapped edges under the stitching. When sewing the herringbone stitch, especially on the folder edge, make sure to go down to the card stock; at the fold you will be going through 3 layers. Do two rounds of herringbone stitch, the first close to the overlap the second round, further out; making sure to also pull the thread to get the fabric tighter and thus smoother on the inside surface, that will be against the finger.
FINAL STEP: Slide the core off the tube and try it on! Congratulations, the core for a yubinuki has been completed.
In the next tutorial we will make a tools that will allow us to divide our pattern evenly without doing MATH.
NOTE: This post was originally posted over on my personal website.
In the prior post about materials, I wrote about what types and sizes of thread to use to make yubinuki. In this post I will tell you my sources for them.
Threads are very particular to the user; I like cotton and silk and if I could I would use silk all the time. But I also have used polyester, poly/cotton, soy, linen, bamboo, and Tencel. Threads for making Yubinuki can be found almost anywhere provided you are willing to look and try them. Having a background in sewing/weaving/knitting I go to Fiber Festivals around the area where I live and I look for threads and yarns that are lace weight, that could be used for making yubinuki; that is how I recently found the silk thread supplier (below) and silk lace weigh yarns. Go to knitting store as the fine threads for crochet (size 30 and 80) are also good to use. Additionally go to needlepoint, embroidery, cross-stitch and other hand sewing stores who stock not only the big name manufacturers of threads but some of these smaller makers too.
Then of course there is the web! You can search and find suppliers of threads from around the world, you just have to look and Google will be your friend! And do not rule out eBay, Etsy or Amazon as possible sources. It was via eBay that I picked up some silk floss and perle from Japan and I am still looking for online stores to source more from.
Now I am going to point you to some of the on-line vendors that I use for various threads. Yes; I now there are others but these are the places I like to use and none are local or big box stores.